There are not many hotels that deliver the wow factor immediately upon the door opening, if not at the door itself.
Hoshinoya Tokyo wows with the large cypress door, and while you continue to hold your breath as the doors open, you are bound to be amazed at the sight of the lower lobby. It is here that you realise Hoshinoya takes its roll as an urban ryokan (Japanese inn) very seriously.
The entryway is lined with floor-to-ceiling bamboo lockers that store your shoes, before going to the upper-level guest rooms. But it is the sheer sight of the bamboo boxes that line an entire wall, floor to ceiling, to the ikebana plant that changes with the seasons, that may lead to an audible gasp. Once on the tatami mats, you are allowed to roam the entire hotel in your socks (the Japanese way) or barefoot, whichever feels more comfortable. It is much like being at home.
Each floor at Hoshinoya is designed as a private ryokan with six rooms. Tatami mats line the entire hotel and each floor has an Ochanoma Lounge, shared by all the rooms. It is here that you check in, sometimes. Other times, you can be checked-in at the upper lobby floor, which also houses the boutique. The checking-in process isn’t the standard. You are welcomed with a small tea ritual.
The welcome drink is sencha, but it is brewed with water at different temperatures. The three infusions offer sencha at 70C, the first brew; at 60C offers a sweeter brew and at 90C for an aromatic brew. After the tea is brewed three times, the leaves are consumed with a dash of ponzu. However, if you're refraining from caffeine, there is a black soy bean tea on offer along with kura mochi tea dessert.
Each floor has three room types, Kiku (executive triple), Yuri (deluxe king) and Sakura (deluxe twin). Kiku, being a corner room, is the one that offers the most space and a private entrance of sorts. It's almost like you're entering your home. A rather large living room with a dining table, work desk, sofa and walk-in closet comes with a large bathroom and an ofuro-style tub. The bed is tatami-style, closer to the floor and does require some amount of flexibility. Insider's tip: Do not forget to shut not only the first layer of blinds, but also the blackout blinds before turning in for the night.
For those who prefer bright hotel rooms, perhaps Hoshinoya isn't for you. Even with the shoji screens open, there is not a lot of light as the building's facade is designed with metal lattice for maximum privacy. The lattice is based on a traditional Edo-period kimono design and does give the room an almost ethereal effect when the sunlight comes through. Let us not forget, this is bang smack in the financial district and you're going to be looking into office buildings. Though the contrast of seeing people at their desks while you're on holiday is one of sheer luxury.
In true ryokan tradition, there are his and hers yukatas, replaced daily, for lounging around the hotel in. This is why I love the Japanese ryokans so much, they allow you to pack light so you can fill your suitcase with kawaii things.
However, the pièce de résistance is the top-floor onsen, which is fed by hot spring waters drawn from 1,500m below ground. Insider's tip: There may be a strong smell in the onsen, but that is due to the water being high in salinity. Also, the only other place that shares the hot spring water with the hotel is a spa in the basement that is not part of the hotel. As always, the onsen is split into men's and women's and the spa is also on this floor. The beauty of the Hoshinoya onsen is the outdoor bath, which has an open skylight. Depending on the time of day, the dramatic sky changes are to behold, especially on a clear night, where you're star-gazing while bathing. Do rehydrate with cold Hokkaido milk in the lounge outside the onsen.
Every evening, for around two hours, the hotel opens its complimentary Sake Lounge where you can do a sake-tasting with a snack. Though you have to exit the building to re-enter the lounge. A Japanese tea ceremony is also on offer at an extra cost, as is the must-do kenjutsu session, on the helipad of a neighbouring building at the break of dawn. There is nothing more rejuvenating than feeling fresh, cool/cold air on your face, with a spectacular view of the city while you're drawing swords with an opponent in a friendly manner.
The best part of splurging at Hoshinoya Tokyo is to eat the restaurant that is only accessible to in-house guests. "Lost Flavors Of Japanese Home Recipes" is perhaps one of the best, if not the best modern Japanese meal I've ever had. Each course highlights a dish from a different region of the country and shines a light on the vanishing recipes of Japan's past. While the menu changes regularly, there is always one dish from chef Ryosuke Oka's hometown in Shiga prefecture. It would be worth checking into the hotel, if just to eat at the restaurant.
Breakfast is a holistic ryokan one and embraces the core Japanese culinary concepts of "Gomi (five flavours), Goshiki (five colours) and Goho (five methods)". It is available in the one restaurant in the basement, though you can also opt for the Western breakfast, and have it served in your room.
Though service can be a tad indifferent at times, the luxury and comforts make up for it. Being right above Otemachi station and bang-smack at the Otemachi forest is a huge plus. You are near all the excellent lunch and after-work deals and the Imperial Palace, which is a good place to stroll the afternoon away.
Hotels don't get as private than stays at Hoshinoya Tokyo.
