Shaped by the sea

In all my years of living in Thailand, I have only visited Koh Phi Phi for day trips and have never considered staying over. Simply because the island, I thought, was rife with tourists. 

Though Outrigger Phi Phi has managed to change that thought. A drive from Phuket airport to the resort’s lounge for a rest and refreshments before getting on a boat to the island may take half a day to get to the island, but the trek is totally worth it once you sink your toes into the sand and gaze into the vast ocean. 

Arrive by boat and leave the world behind, literally. Set on Laem Tong Beach in the Hat Nopparat Thara–Koh Phi Phi National Park, the resort opens onto quiet sands, coral reefs and limestone cliffs shaped by the sea. Guided by the Urak Lawoi traditions, life here slows you down naturally. 

There are seven types of villas and suites on offer and the best one to make the most of it is the Beachfront Pool Villa. Though if getting sand between your toes and bedsheets isn’t your thing, there is always the Hilltop Ocean View Pool Villa, offering views of the Andaman Sea in total seclusion. 

If you are a beach bum, the Beachfront Pool Villa is seconds away from the beach, main pool and restaurants. Though not 100% secluded, having a private pool is luxury enough, coupled with sea views from the sun-kissed terrace. Rooms are designed in minimalist chic and have everything one may need. The floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the living room and the bedroom, perhaps, have only one flaw … they do not open out to the terrace. Bathrooms are spacious and are almost the size of the living room, though with no tub, you’re not going to be spending much time in it. 

As the resort undergoes refurbishments (don’t worry if you’re in a beach villa, you won’t be disturbed by a thing!), the only restaurant open is Outrigger’s signature Edgewater Bar & Grill. It is important that, in resorts that are secluded, the food must be top-notch, at least in my book. 

The kitchen is helmed by chef Satya Beeknoo, a Mauritian who is no stranger to island life and its cuisine. Chef Beeknoo pairs his homegrown Creole flavours and fire-led cooking with Andaman seafood, around 60% of it sourced directly from local Urak Lawoi fishermen, with the remaining sourced from fishermen in Krabi and Phang Nga. 

Rather than expecting the same selection each day, chef Beeknoo works around what the boats bring in. “We cook with the catch, not with a fixed menu,” he says. “What our fishermen bring in each day shapes what we serve. Weather and sea conditions can also affect availability, so we encourage guests to enjoy what’s freshest at the time.”

Urak Lawoi families have long formed part of Laem Tong’s seafaring community, where fishing has shaped livelihoods across generations.  Chef Beeknoo’s connection to Laem Tong also predates the brand’s arrival and has led the property’s kitchen since 2018. Outrigger acquired the property in April 2025, and apart from partnerships with Urak Lawoi fishermen, a chef’s garden supplying fresh produce to the kitchens is also being grown. “For me, great cooking is about simplicity, respect and flavour,” says the former Iron Chef Thailand 2020 winner. Keep it simple — perfection is lots of little things done well.” 

The Lobster curry with Creole spices is the chef’s mother's recipe and it is made with fresh local lobster, Creole spices and selected Thai herbs and spices. The Sea bass cooked in coconut flakes is marinated in his Creole spice blend, coated with coconut flakes and cooked beside rather than directly over the flame. As the coconut toasts, it gives the fish a light smokiness and toasted-coconut aroma without overwhelming its flavour.

Chef Beeknoo also serves Thai signatures like Khao soi and Seafood pad Thai. His shorthand for balancing these flavours is a five-part mantra: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Spice and Satya. The final “S”, he says, represents the creativity and personal touch he brings while allowing the seafood to remain central.

A sure-fire way to get into the chef’s recipe books is to take a private cooking class, which begins in the chef’s garden among the herbs before moving to an open-air kitchen by the sea to prepare two or three Thai dishes. The five-course chef’s table, “Satya’s Journey Through Fire”, progresses through five stages — Ignite, Smoke, Flame, Embers and Afterglow — with each course exploring a different way of cooking with heat and making a splendid dinner treat.

The best bit about Edgewater is that it’s right on the beach and the interiors are designed to make the most of the view. I won’t spoil the treat by describing it here; you’ll have to visit to find out! Soon to open are the Mala Kitchen, which will be the resort’s all-day dining and private chef’s table.  

Though there are beach activities and water sports, you can rent the luxury Outrigger long tail boat to cruise around the island and see the sights or snorkel. Visit the famous Maya Bay, swim in the emerald lagoon of Phi Phi Leh and snorkel at Viking Cave Reef. There are also scuba-diving and Padi courses on offer. Though a leisure cruise offering afternoon tea or just snacks and drinks, depending on how long you’d like to cruise, is also a thing of beauty.

If you choose to spend afternoons lazing by the pool with views of the sun and sea, or a good book, do look up now and then. If only to catch sight of the Pied Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula bicolour), which is creamy-white with contrasting black flight feathers and a black tail. They are often found roosting in the trees on the property. If you’re sitting out on the sundeck of your villa, you may also spot the Black-nest swiftlet, though I only managed to see it twice. 

Outrigger Phi Phi has a spa called Zeavola, zea meaning sea and vola evoking freedom, movement and immersion in nature, to soothe those muscles after a snorkelling or diving trip. I chose the signature massage and it was the best one I’ve had in a long, long time. I was even snoring at one point, which is how relaxing it was! Reservations are highly recommended as it seems everyone had the same idea as I did. 

For yoga practitioners, Rub Aroon sunrise yoga is offered daily either in the open-air yoga sala or in-villa, as are all the spa treatments, too. There is another pool hidden by the flora and while it may not offer views, it is good for laps and water aerobics. Not frequented by other guests, it is a good spot for some quiet time. There is also a gym by this fitness pool and if travelling with kids, enrol them in the Coral Kids Club.

Outrigger Phi Phi is where the Andaman Sea does more than just frame the view, it is where sea, culture and luxury meet.