The Speak Easy

The Speak Easy

In conversation with Lola Lau, the woman who helped shape the Chinese mixology scene

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
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The Speak Easy

One of China's renowned mixologists, Lola Lau has won the Cointreau Margarita Challenge Global Championship and was crowned the China champion for Patron Perfectionists. She was also holding the fort at Hope & Sesame Shenzhen. Lau now travels the world telling stories through liquid tastes. 

How did you get into bartending?

I've loved all kinds of handmade crafts and creative work since I was a child. During a part-time job in college, I happened to try an exceptionally delicious mojito, which sparked a strong interest in cocktail culture. That’s why I decided to work at that bar. And before I knew it, I've been in this industry for 14 years. Looking back on these 14 years, I feel quite fortunate — every bar I’ve worked at has been willing to give me opportunities and I’ve been able to adapt to different cultures and learn various skills along the way.

What are you doing now that you have exited Hope & Sesame, Shenzhen?

I am a total workaholic. Over the past 13 years, aside from burying myself in food and beverage-related books, my life was all about work — constantly accumulating experiences through my palate.

In February last year, I suddenly realised that besides work, I had no life at all, and my sources of inspiration were becoming increasingly limited. So I decided to give myself a gap year — a chance to relax, breathe and take time to reflect on my own life. Currently, besides accepting invitations for guest shifts, I also take on small consulting projects. I keep most of my free time for reading and thinking. But I have to say, every guest shift in 2025 brought me different, meaningful gains. I’m truly grateful to all the brands and venues I collaborated with in 2025. 

You are known for the cultural shift in what was previously a male-dominant industry, especially in China. How has the scene changed?

The Chinese bar scene has become much more inclusive. When I first entered the industry, female bartenders were already not uncommon, but you could still clearly feel the gender-based inequality in how bars were managed.

Nowadays, however, more and more women are leading award-winning bars, competing internationally, and mentoring newcomers. Bars are also placing greater emphasis on team diversity, and social media has amplified voices challenging outdated stereotypes.

In China today, the focus has shifted more toward passion and skill rather than gender. Interestingly, with the entry of the post-00s generation in recent years, there has been a rise in home bars and avant-garde, non-traditional cocktail bars. The industry is becoming increasingly diverse, but competition is also growing fiercer.

The diversity among customers is so vast that sometimes you don't even know how to please them. At the same time, social media often amplifies negative information for traffic, misleading many viewers and customers. But where there is discussion, progress accelerates. This might just be a sign that China's cocktail market is on the brink of full maturity.

How does the Chinese bar scene compare with that in Southeast Asia?

The Chinese bar scene is actually quite advanced, with a high average level of cocktail craftsmanship. However, due to systemic and cultural reasons, it may be less visible to the international audience.

Given China's vast territory and abundant resources, the variations between cities are significant. Along with geographical differences, there are also distinct local cuisines, which have given rise to many bars themed around 'city culture.' Singapore tends to lean toward 'international tastes + sustainable mixology + classic cocktail heritage,' while Bangkok sits somewhere in between, boasting many uniquely local ingredients. In short, I believe China's bar scene is incredibly diverse!

You use a lot of Japanese ingredients and your cocktails are Japanese-inspired, how did that come about?

The inspiration for my cocktails doesn’t actually come from Japan, though I do use matcha and yuzu in a few of them. Most of my ideas stem from everyday dining experiences. For example, one of my cocktails features toasted rice, raspberry, and Lapsang Souchong tea — a combination inspired by a meal where I was drinking wine, eating toasted rice, and sipping Lapsang Souchong tea all at once (we Chinese often pair tea with meals doesn’t matter if you already having wine or not, lol).

Another cocktail uses six different types of peppercorns to capture their subtle distinctions and create a drink that is ‘both singular and rich’ in aroma. This way, guests can enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed, yet still discover delightful surprises when sipping slowly. The philosophy behind these creations is partly instinct and partly a reflection of paying attention to the finer details of life.

How do you describe your style of signature cocktails?

Emotional resonance, memory evocation, simplicity with depth.

What’s next for Lola Lau?

I'm still enjoying the freedom of this moment and wish to explore more diverse roles within the food and beverage industry. What comes 'Next' remains an open question for now. I want to travel more around the world, embrace life, and reflect on its meaning. Perhaps inspiration for 'Next' will strike unexpectedly at some point in the future

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